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the Latest
My friend Emily posed the question, “who holds your happiness in their hands, or what?” The first thing that came to mind was water, we had just pulled over at a local spring to fill our water bottles with cold clear delicious water. Water in any form, salt or fresh, vast or creek sized, frozen or flowing.
Our expedition in the Chilkat Mountains was almost over. We had hiked back down to the beach where it all began the day before, where the Zodiac was anchored just off shore waiting to carry us back across the Chilkat Inlet.
I woke to Julie singing my name, “Lily. Lily. Lily, can I borrow your charger? My phone is about to die.” I opened my eyes to complete darkness, my hat still pulled over them, my muscles tense from being cold all night. It felt good to relax them as I pushed myself up and out of my sleeping bag, in a sad attempt to get warm I had burrowed far into my bag as if it were a den.
This is without a doubt one of the coolest places I have ever slept, made even better by the grueling three hour trek to get there. Not only does it reward your efforts with incredible views of the Chilkoot mountains across the way, and endless sights up and down the Lynn Canal, but you are level with the Rainbow Glacier. You are so close you can feel the chill of the ice.
This trip had been weeks in the making, planning around schedules, kids and the weather. We had postponed twice before and my time in Haines was quickly coming to an end, I had just five days until I would be on the ferry heading back down the Lynn Canal.
From Shakuseyi the trail continues heading in the direction of Haines towards the second peak named Mt. Ripinski. After the first section of the day, steep switch backs and significant elevation gains, this part of the hike was a welcome break.
I had waited weeks to do this hike. The delay was not due to weather or access, I could have reached the trail from Julie’s back yard, instead it was unusual bear activity that kept me out of the woods. Three different sows, each with two cubs, were running around town, eating chickens and breaking windows.
The number of peaks surrounding Haines, visible from just about everywhere in town, is astounding and one of the most epic things about this place. It isn’t just the presence of mountains, but proximity, they are just a couple miles away with peaks rising between 4,000 to 6,000 ft straight out of the sea, it is a mighty sight.
Time and time again in Haines, and more generally, I have experienced a certain phenomenon. A serendipity of sorts, with a hint of déjà vu. I hesitate to call it fate or destiny, it is more a confirmation. A sign that instills a sense of confidence that I am exactly where I am meant to be in time and space, perhaps where I was always going to be despite feeling as if I had chosen a path amidst several.
Patagonia
In January 2018 I arrived in Patagonia, a region spanning across southern Chile & Argentina.
Here my traverse of the south american continent concluded with a final month of adventure. Little did I know it would be one of the most impressionable. patagonia superseded its hype: UNIQUE MOUNTAINS, WILD WINDS & turquoise LAKES.
My route, unplanned as always, INCLUDED the pinnacles: torres del paine national park, the perito moreno glacier & the fitz roy. However, it took an unexpected turn when my new travel partner, olivia, & i ended up hitch hiking over 1000 km in the chilean fjords.
currently traveling back in time to renovate,
here is what I have so far:
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The W Trek
Torres Del Paine, Chile
Our alarms both went off at 4:30 am. In perfect unison we reached for our phones and stopped the alarms. It was pitch black outside and cold. I laid lovely and warm in my sleeping bag, waiting for Alex to get up and begin getting ready, if she moved I would too.
Today we were heading from east Camp Italiano to Camp Central, a section of trail that is approximately 14 kilometers and moderate. This part of the trail followed along Lago Nordenskjöld, an incredibly beautiful body of water. Its color was the the same glacial turquoise as Lago Pehoé, the lake we had traveled across by boat on our first day.
It was raining when we woke, and very cold. Neither of us had slept well and water had seeped into Alex’s tent during early morning when the rain began. Alex’s tent was an oldie, borrowed from her parents. It was bright green, weighed a ton and was now very wet.
At 7am my new friend and hiking partner for the next four days, Alex, and I met at the Puerto Natales bus terminal. Along with many other tourists we boarded one of maybe ten buses heading for Torres Del Paine National Park.
Visiting the Fitz Roy
El Chaltén, Argentina
NEW TO THE BLOG!
A space documenting the trials & tribulations of living in a planet-friendly way, at home & on the road:
stories of picking up marine litter on beaches around the world, tips & tricks to minimizing plastic in your everyday, odes to my most treasured thrifted finds & dealing with the guilt of a traveler’s carbon footprint.
i WANT TO BRIDGE INTO ENVIRONMENTALISM, THE ACTIVISM OF IT BY shARING HOW i DO MY PART AS BEST i CAN TO TREAT MOTHER EARTH WITH RESPECT.
Flatøya Lighthouse, Norway
Notes on this collection: must try to find a plastic-free chapstick option, buy beverages in glass with metal lids, or not at all.
Picking up trash of a beach quickly becomes a treasure hunt, a quest to find the most interesting thing you can find.
Along with picking up trash on beaches, shopping second hand has become a beloved hobby of mine. It’s the thrill of the hunt, the chase, not knowing what hidden gems you mind uncover.
In the last couple years I have made great strides to minimize my waste. To do so requires significant changes to general consumption and serious renovations to everyday habits, but most of all it requires the will to do so.
When I was little my mom used to separate all our waste: food scraps, glass, plastic, paper recycling & landfill trash. I thought it was such a pain, when at most of my friends homes everything went into one trash can, easy. But we all slowly become our parents, right?
By this point in the hike I had walked just over 5 miles, gained well over 4000 ft, had one wet foot, crossed lots of summer snow almost wiping out just once, and taken hundreds and hundreds of photographs.