Kirchdorf in Tirol, Austria
DAY 1:
the day we arrive in Kirchdorf
I went skiing for a week in Austria with my dad. Back to the same small village and ski slopes where I learned to ski almost 20 years ago. Having lived in many different places, moving often, it is particularly special to have a few recurring places. Places that despite passing time seem to almost stand still. I was last here seven years ago. A lot has changed, I was in 11th grade then. Yet, Krichdorf remains almost exactly the same. I like that.
On a Sunday we rented a car and drove from Frankfurt, Germany to Kirchdoft, Austria. We shared the drive though I was initially intimidated by the Autobahn. Turns out it is exactly like driving in the US, but without having to obsessively check your speed. I was behind the wheel as we turned off the highway onto a very familiar winding mountain road. Soon enough we passed by the town of St. Johann and the bunny hills where I learned to ski before taking a left into the tiny village of Kirchdorf.
We arrived at our sweet and oh so Austrian guesthouse. It is funny what you learn about people when traveling together. I had no idea my dad is the type to unpack immediately upon arrival. I tend more towards living out of a suitcase, closet or not. But I followed suit since we would be here for five days.
With a very organized little room, we headed to a rental shop to get skis, boots and polls.
a FEW sPECS FOR YA:
Ski Pass - $204 / PERSON
included a variety of slopes, some big and some small
The slopes - Skilifte Kirchdorf + STeinplatte + Skistar St.Johann
We averaged 20 runs in a day = 1.40 euros a run
Gear rental - $90 / week
guesthouse (w/ breakfast) - $70 per night
DAY 2:
The day I learned to ski again
It had been six years since I last skied. My freshman year of college I went on a trip to Blue Mountain in Canada with the Ski & Snowboard club. I never loved skiing. I was terrified of gaining any momentum and would painfully, stiffly pizza my way down the slop. I spent a day skiing longing for when someone would suggest stopping for lunch.
So on our first day in Kirchdorf, we took it easy. Hitting the very same bunny slope on which I had learned to ski. Almost exactly 20 years ago, at five years old, with french braids and the cutest dark green snow suit, I had barreled down these bunny hikes with my ski school group called Egi Shneggi.
Two runs in we graduated to the real slope.
Turns out, skiing is super fun. What was I thinking and doing all those times before? It’s hard to understand your past mind, especially your teenage mind. When you relax, let go and just enjoy, it is bomb. We had also arrived along with an epic snow storm sweeping across Austria and Germany. The snow was unlike anything I had experienced. So light, so fluffy. I believe its what they call powder!
Eggi Schneggi - the school whre i LEARNED TO SKI
Graduating from bunny slope to a small hill
A view of St.Johann
a view of kirchdorf
DAY 3
THE DAY WE WENT PRO
Wake up, throw on a sweater, lace up my boots, and join dad in what had become our usual breakfast spot. Drink lots of coffee, cut up a banana and kiwi to put onto my cereal topped with water because they only had cows milk. No problemo, it was delicious. Go back up stairs, gear up, load into car, drive 5 mins down the road. Put on boots, walk up to chairlift, get on chairlift while chatting with very friendly operator. Ski for the next four hours.
We had it down.
And it was still snowing down big flakes of powder. We stuck to our local spot, Skilifte Kirchdorf, as some of the larger slopes, higher up in the mountains were closed due to poor visibility and serious avalanche warnings. Lower down, we got to enjoy the snow. On this day it was snowing so hard that by the time we arrived back at the beginning of a run, all the previous tracks were filled in. With fresh snow.
I was flying through powder like the powder-hound I am. Getting up all the speed I could and launching into untouched powder. Gotta stay humble though. I broke my wrist in the 8th grade on a school trip. The classic result of cockiness, keeping up with my friends, having snowboarded exactly twice, and on icy slopes just outside Seoul, Korea. I am glad I can now say that I can ski and I love it.
After a good sesh of swooshing here and there and everywhere, we paused for lunch. I tried the Kleine Salat and was blown away. Austrians and Germans really know how to make a salad. Then I had a coffee and pet the dog.
DAY 4
The day the Sun came out
I opened my eyes and saw blue sky. Not the grey, snow-filled sky that had loomed over us since our arrival. Blue sky and sunshine. I laced up my boots and went out onto the balcony. Strangely I missed the snow, but watched the sunrise and sunlight catch the top of the big snowy hill behind the guesthouse.
This is the view from our balcony: the snow on the garage roof below was higher than the railing on the balcony!
When I instagrammed this big snowy hill someone messaged me saying it looked like the wall from Game Of Thrones. We have called it “the wall” since.
I went downstairs and over breakfast we decided we should graduate to bigger slopes and head to Steinplatte, one of the big slopes in this area accessible by gondola. I soon forgot all about missing the snow on the drive there. Finally we could see the mountains, the Alps.
The Gondola
we took this lift
to get to this lunch spot
At Steinplatte the slopes were bigger in every direction.
Some of the blue ones were so chill you could scoot along while enjoying the views. The larger resort and sunshine made for more populated slopes. But there were times where it was just my dad and I swooshing along.
As much as I loved skiing, I loved riding back up in the chairlifts watching the beautiful skiers and snowboarders below.
on our last run we had the sunset to our right and the never ending snow storm blowing back in on our left
but before the clouds engulfed it yet again, we got a look at the Wilder Kaiser
day 5
the grand finale
I was sad to wake up on our fifth and final day of skiing. It was grey and snowing again, I had grown very fond of this constant snow. And of our routine from the last couple days. Wake up, breakfast, ski, lunch, ski, dinner, early to bed, repeat.
At breakfast, my dad made a joke about “if” we would make to back to Frankfurt. The forecast suggested the snow would persist the next couple days. I held onto the small hope that we might get stuck here and get a few more days of skiing. I couldn’t get enough.
We hit up Kirchdorf again, our clear favorite. Funny how a relatively small slope can be so diverse. With only two runs it seemed so small, and yet every day was so different depending on the snow fall and weather. Really every run was so different. The smallest variation made every run just as exciting as the last. The perfect place to get comfortable.
All too quickly the day came to an end. As we enjoyed our last couple runs, the sun broke through the clouds. Gifting us a beautiful sunset and somewhat begrudgingly, a nice send off. I figured a sunset meant that we would indeed make it back to Frankfurt the following day.
DAY 6
BACK TO FRANKFURT WE WENT
We drove around the tiny village of Kirchdorf one last time before leaving. I wanted to take some pictures that might show just how huge this snow storm was. I still don’t think it quite does the amount of snow justice, but I’ve never seen so much snow before.
Thank you Padre for an epic week of skiing!
And thank you powder gods for the chance to experience epic snow. But this snow was not enjoyed by all. Thinking of those who were not treated kindly by this crazy snow storm: those stuck in cars through the freezing night on the highway, avalanches and many lives sadly lost. Mother nature is no joke.
