Kvalvika Beach
A Surfer’s Hut
We found a spot in the parking lot across from the trailhead and set off. The snow was deeper than expected, and the wind stronger. Snowshoes or some poles would have been nice, but the six of us trudged on. At the beginning of the hike, wooden planks form the trail. I didn’t realize just how helpful this was until I took an unbalanced step just to the side of a plank and sank into thigh-high snow.
This trail, one of three leading to this secluded spot, is just 2km and leads up and over a small mountain pass. Fresh snow made it slightly more interesting, especially as we came over the pass and started down to the beach. One by one we abandoned our unstable legs on the slippery snow and tobogganed down.
The bEach
After quite a trek, through some deep snow and down some steep terrain, we arrived on the beach. Stretching out between the mountains, it was a haven. Sheltered from the wind it was significantly warmer on the beach. There was even a little freshwater stream meeting the sea on the right-hand side of the beach. If only we had camping gear, I would have stayed for days.
THE STORY OF THIS MAGICAL HUT:
Two local surfer dudes, Inge Wegge and Jørn Ranum, decided to live on a beach in Lofoten through an Arctic winter. A secluded and relatively unknown beach, it is accessible only by foot across three different mountain passes, one north of the beach, one south and one somewhere in the middle. They wanted to spend their days isolated and surfing.
Arriving in the diminishing warmth of fall, they pitched a tent. Between catching waves, they began collecting trash that was washing up on the beach. Unfortunately, marine litter from all over the world flows northward on Gulf Stream currents polluting Arctic beaches, no matter how remote or seemingly pristine. Fortunately, the huge amount of ocean trash supplied them with a variety of building materials, for the dudes needed to build a more stable shelter: something sturdy and hopefully very warm.
Pallets and driftwood provided more conventional building material from which they forged four walls and a roof. A little creativity converted less likely trash into other essentials, like a quintessential Norwegian wood-burning stove made from an old oil canister, likely originating from the oil rigs down south. Rustic, the hut includes two built-in bunks in an “L” shape against two walls. The other walls are occupied by a desk/ kitchen combination, and a wee hobbit door.
Their documentary does a much better job explaining what exactly happened on Kvalvika beach that winter. It is called North Of The Sun and will leave you yearning to do the same.
At least, that is how I was left feeling. I must find my Kvalvika beach.
Back we went, climbing up through the pass to the van parked on the other side. This is an epic spot and though the snow added a little more interest to the hike, it was worth it to share the beach with only a few others. However, if you are planning to visit in warmer weather definitely bring your tent to spend a night or two on the beach. That would be epic.
