Above The Arctic Circle
as epic as it sounds
I passed into the ring of the Arctic Circle by train: nine hours of incredibly beautiful views as the train paralleled the sea, twisted through mountains and traced frozen rivers.
On the bank of one river I saw a pair of massive sea eagles - I would later learn that where I was heading hosts the largest population of sea eagles in the world. Though seen in a flash, these birds sent confirmation coursing through me that I was exactly where I was meant to be, and heading where I was meant to be heading. Not to be sappy but birds of prey are something of a motif in my life, beginning my freshman year of college when a young snow white hawk followed me to class one day, flying from tree to tree as I walked. Now I see them on runs, or flying by the very moment I look out a car window. Instances where had I looked up a second before or after, I wouldn’t have seen them.
Back to this train ride: it left from Trondheim at 7:30 and was scheduled to arrived in Bodø at 17:30. However, after several small delays we were running behind. My carefree self wouldn’t usually mention a delay, but Bodø was not my final destination. I was heading to an Island farther north and thus expecting and expected to catch a ferry departing at 18:00.
It was going to be close and this was the final ferry of the day. Half way through the journey, as a little doubt started to weigh on my mind, I contacted a few people on couch surfing. A very kind man named John offered me a tentative spot on his couch if I were to have missed the ferry. I continue to be astonished by the generosity of strangers.
In the last hour of its epic journey, the train began to close in on the delay until our estimated arrival time was 17:45. A very kind conductor suggested I head to the very front of the train to get as close as possible to the station and the taxis waiting just beyond.
Not only did I make the ferry, reiterating as my travels so often do that everything tends to work out, but I was welcomed into the Arctic by the most insane sunset.
Completely awe struck and as modeled many times by my father, I stayed out on the deck of the ferry until bitter cold and intense winds sent me down into the cabin below deck. In two hours the ferry would stop at the tiny coastal town of Nordskot. There I would be picked up and delivered to my final destination: Manshausen.
Pictured above, Manshausen is the private island of Arctic explorer and Norwegian legend, Børge Ousland. Norwegians love their explores, just as much as their skiers, just as much as they love to win in any and every field. They are a proud bunch and I love that about them. I had no previous knowledge of this explorer, but after reading through his many National Geographic articles I was keen to meet him. He doesn’t live on the island full time, he lives in Oslo, but he would be visiting in a few weeks.
His Expeditions Include…
1994: He completed the first solo and unsupported expedition to the North Pole
1996-7: He became the first person in the world to complete an unsupported and solo crossing of the Antarctic. He also holds the record for the fastest unsupported journey, taking 34 days on skies with the assistance of a kite.
2006: In a crew of four, he circumnavigated the Arctic Circle by sailboat in a single season. This expedition is known as “The Northern Passage”.
…to name a few.
Just like with my first Work Away position, fresh snow preceded my arrival. Another good omen that fulfilled my Arctic dreams, and ever so slightly justifying my new puffer coat.
Once on the island I was welcomed by a bonfire dinner, a cold beer, and the five guys I would be working alongside. Then, as if this day wasn’t exciting enough, northern lights appeared, dancing across the sky, bright green and purple.
In the morning light of my first day, I laid in bed appreciating the space I had been given. As the only female volunteer, I was very kindly given a little flat in the main house. A bathroom, little kitchen, a gloriously comfortable bed, all with a view of the mountains would be my home for the next month, maybe longer. I have been warned this is a hard place to leave.
Before breakfast down at “the white house” (where the five guys live), I went on a little stroll around the island to figure out where exactly I was.
First impressions: mountains in every direction including a view of Lofoten to the Northwest, the tiny town of Nordskot to the Northeast, clear sea water of various blues, seagulls squeaking, very windy, very cold.
A low tide revealed tidal pools, one of my greatest pleasures in life. I’ve loved a tide pool since I was a young child. I stopped every so often to poke around a little pool, picking up tiny yellow snails and playing with the ice forming at their edges. It might only take 20 minutes to walk around the entire island, it is not very big, but it was closer to an hour before I made it back to the white house for breakfast.
This is the dreamy little sauna.
I hope to have more to say about that in the coming weeks.
atlantic cod
danish rye & a pickle
You might be wondering what I am doing on this island. I am not exactly sure what my work will be or where my skill set will be most valuable, helpful, utilized. But, I am trading work for room and board, a concept that I am finding very refreshing.