Day One: The West Highland Way
Wednesday May 15th
milngavie - Milarrochy Camp Grounds
20.5 miles / 33 km
The West Highland Way
The West Highland Way is a 95 mile (154 km) long path beginning in Milngavie just north of Glasgow and ending in Fort William a town sitting in the Scottish highlands near Ben Nevis, the highest peak in the UK. More commonly traveled from South to North with the gradual increase in elevation or intensity of the landscape, this trail was the first of its kind established in Scotland.
In my opinion the path is not remote, for the route passes through villages where one can enjoy a nice beer, hotels are dotted along for those not camping and at some points there is a major road nearby. However, it is a perfect trail for those like me looking to dip a toe into long distance hiking and Scotland permits wild camping, so there is opportunity to camp in sites or respectfully off on your own.
The Beginning
At 7:30 I stood on the train platform waiting for one heading to Milngavie, the town where the West Highland Way begins. The journey is just 30 minutes and 3.60 Euros per ride. Right out of the train I was greeted by signs leading me towards the beginning of the trail. Wanting to celebrate the beginning of my first long distance hike I stopped for a coffee at a little cafe called Jessie Biscuit for an iced Americano.
It was a beautiful day, warm with sunshine & most importantly it was dry. From the village of Milngavie the trail takes you through some local parks and then out into the country side passing farms and cozy country homes.
12 miles later I reached Dryman. I continued right by the village, wanting to make it to Loch Lomond by the end of the day to a campsite there. I didn’t feel hardcore enough to wild camp in a village or more populated area, though I had heard the corner of a farmers field wouldn't bother anyone.
I would say it is near impossible to get lost or separated from the trail, however, I managed it. I followed people instead of the trail signs and by passed Conic Hill. Apparently the view is epic from up there but lesson learned. Instead of the hill top view, I followed a trail through several fields shared by baby lambs and calves. I gave all the mother animals plenty of space, and enjoyed the sweet baby animals running around.
stopping for lunch
scottish cow in field
conic hill
I made it to Balmaha, a village on the shore of Loch Lomond in the early evening. I stopped for a beer at the oat tree inn to celebrate the first day. It was very hard to strap back into my pack and start walking again, but just 2.1 miles down the trail was a campsite.
Milarrochy Bay Camping and Caravanning Club Site is really lovely: clean, quiet, by the water & the care taker was a funny guy. It cost me 7:50 euro for a non-water front camp site along side several other hikers.
In the night I was visited by a little frog. I had unknowingly camped in the middle of his game trail to a near by pond and the poor thing was trying desperately to travel underneath my tent. His movement and sounds incorporated into my dream where I imagined him to be a mouse trying to steal all my oats. When I finally woke and realized all the racket was a little frog, I helped him out from under my tent.
This frog and passing by a few mountain goats in three days time were the most exciting animal encounters I would have in Scotland, what I imagine to be one of the biggest differences between hiking in Europe vs. North America.