Ljubljana, Slovenia
a quaint hidden gem with epic falafel
In early June I traveled to Slovenia, via Croatia. It was much cheaper to fly into Rijeka with Ryanair & take a 3 hour bus ride into Ljubljana instead of a direct flight. Something like $25 cheaper.
My original plan for Slovenia was to meet a best friend there and set out together on a month long hike through the Julian Alps. Dreaming of the Pacific Crest Trail, we figured we would dip our toes in long term hiking life. Our plans fell through while I was in Scotland, but with a flight already booked and no other ideas for where to go next, I decided to go to Slovenia anyways.
With zero expectations and no plans I arrived in the capital of Ljubljana at a very cool hostel that used to be a prison. I would end up spending two weeks in Slovenia and enjoyed every moment of it.
my hostel was a former military barrack…
Hostel Celica is a beautiful space with lovely common areas & very helpful staff. I spent two nights there in the larger dorm rooms on the third floor. The rooms are simple, rows of very cozy beds like you are at sleep away camp. The rooms were very clean & there was a small kitchen for use down the hall.
Set in a eclectic neighborhood, an alternative artistic center called Metelkova Mesto, the hostel contributes to the art scene by hosting live music & other events. They also offer breakfast & have a full kitchen for later meals.
went into town to find a cup of coffee…
I ended up at Crno Zrno, a sweet little spot with Colombian coffees brewed by the loveliest Colombian man. There was also a fresh loaf of vegan banana bread on the counter when I arrived so I got a classic combination: Iced Americano & a slice of banana bread.
Everything was delicious & along with two other women who seemed to be regulars, we listened to the owner explain why he had a bag of water tired to the ceiling. Turns out it is a South American form of insect repellent. Something about the light reflecting & refracting through the bag of water confuses insects who base their movements on light.
i walked through the center of town…
found a market & bought a kilo of cherries…
There is a massive fruit, vegetable & craft market sprawled across the plazas around St. Nicholas Cathedral. I was tempted by the beautiful woven baskets & hoped to find a straw hat to improve my hikers look, but none of them spoke to me.
The fruit however, called my name in every direction. Slovenia is rich in beautiful produce, seems everything grows here. I ended up buying a kilo of juicy cherries to enjoy as I walked around town.
and then, i strolled along the canal…
Following the canal out of downtown, its banks become more and more residential. I love walking around a new city admiring houses and the ones along this canal offered lovely people watching. It was such a beautiful day, many people were sitting out on their balconies with cigarets & friends. One guy sat tinkering on his guitar, while his neighbors had lunch.
visited the castle with a view over the city…
The hike up the hill to the castle is lovely, offering views over the city & on a clear day a glimpse of the distant mountains! There are two paths up to the castle & I would recommend going up one way and down the other to see two different neighborhoods, though neither is far from the center of the city.
At the castle I stood outside looking at the entrance sign. It seemed to say that entrance into the castle cost 10 euros. I thought that was a little steep & would rather spend that on lunch, but as I stood there considering a women passing by told me it was free. A few areas required a ticket, but general admission was free.
i ate at this Falafel place five times…
I would spend a total of four days in Ljubljana, two days book ending my entire time in Slovenia. In those four days I ate at Abi Falafel five times, once a day plus a to-go order for company on a long bus ride. Obviously, I recommend it.
It is a huge amount of food & the falafel plate is the perfect combination of fresh salad, fried falafel, thick humus & I especially loved the potato edition.
i walked and walked until the sun set…
Ljubljana is perfect for walking, nothing is too far. I spent all day strolling around, seeing sights, eating good food, sitting on a bench here & there to read my book or watch boat float by.
Oh, and under a very pink sky, I enjoyed a frozen treat at a cozy spot called Gelateria Romantika. I had the chocolate & lemon and it was seriously good stuff.
the best croissant of my life…
At 7am the next morning I woke early & threw on a dress as quietly as possible so as not to wake anyone in the dorm. It was chilly & quiet as I walked across town to Osem bakery, very excited to see what they had baked fresh this morning.
Walking into Osem was like walking into heaven. Behind the floating glass counter housing breads & morning treats, three beautiful men stood at a shared counter top shaping loaves. Seriously sexy stuff. I ordered a croissant & walked to the canal to find a bench to sit and enjoy breakfast. I had no idea that once I found the right spot, I would experience the most delicious croissant of my life.
So mouthwatering, I went back to buy a second.
all in all…
Ljubljana is a wonderful city & I cannot recommend visiting this hidden gem enough. It is the perfect introduction to Slovenia, from which you have a lot to explore.
In the west, you could head to Bovec & the beautiful Soça River to go hiking, kayaking, rafting & canyoning. Then to Lake Bled, Lake Bohinj & Triglav National Park. You might even head to Mt. Triglav the highest peak in the Julian Alps @ 2864 meters.
In the east, there are castles to visit, beautiful agricultural lands with the possibility of farm stays & of course, more mountains. The Kamnik Alps are apparently less crowded in the summer time & you may have seen pictures of the beautiful mountain hut on Skuta Mountain. Spending a night up there in this contemporary mountain hut would be epic.
