Bovec, Slovenia
from ljubljana to bovec
I love arriving in a place with no plans and no expectations. I am a firm believer in two ideas: that no or low expectations are often exceeded and things tend to work out. In practicing these two perspectives the unknown, unpredictability of travel (and life) is much more enjoyable.
In Ljubljana, Slovenia’s capital city, I sat with a coffee in a beautiful cafe looking at maps, trying to figure out where to go next. I knew I wanted to see the Julian Alps and Triglav National Park, and with a pack filled with camping gear I wanted to do some hiking and camping. By the end of my coffee I had decided to take a bus to Bovec the next day, an “adventure town” in the east of Slovenia near the Italian boarder. The phrase “adventure town” generally makes me hesitate as they usually turn out to be touristy, kitschy places.
However, the Soça river which runs through the east of Slovenia caught my eye. Many claim this river to be one of the most beautiful in the world and I am a sucker for cold, clear bodies of water. Plus, the Alpe Adria Trail, a long distance trail running through Austria, Slovenia and Italy, traces along this river and the village of Bovec. Back at the hostel I double checked my plans with the lovely lady at the front desk who confirmed my bus times, told me how to acquire a ticket, and recommended a hostel in Bovec.
Top Tip:
Always consult with hostel staff. Not only do they have tips and tricks, especially if local to the area, but also for safety so someone might be able to recognize your face and know where you were heading next.
The next morning I headed to Bovec. The bus took longer than expected, almost 3 hours with stops along the way and road work. Once in the village I was very happy to find just the right amount of tourism, not kitsch at all. Most exciting of all, there was a pub in town called the Thirsty River Brewery & Pub, I headed straight there after dropping my bags off at my hostel called Soça Rocks.
The beers at Thirsty River were strong. I had the “American Dream Pale Ale” after witch I was very pleasantly tipsy. Later that night I hung out with two cool gals from Tasmania at the hostel who highly recommended going rafting the next day, so I did.
With more of an interest in kayaking or canoeing I had never been or thought to go rafting before, but it was really fun. Our guide for the day was hilarious and half way through the trip we had a strange pretend wedding, like you might have done as a child.
We had stopped on the bank of the river to drink from a spring, and then someone picked me a bouquet, our guide made me a flower crown and matching wreath for each arm, like a Greek goddess. Then we stood in the middle of the spring, in wet suits, soaked and cold, and someone whose name I never knew pretended to marry us.
I went rafting early in the morning, so I would have the rest of the day to wander and provision for the next few days of hiking. With a lovely French girl, who had just begun two years of world wide travels, I took a little stroll around Bovec. The tiny village is surrounded by fields, farms, forest & the Soça flowing majestically by.
On our walk we passed an old World War I bunker whose poor inhabitants were killed in one of the first mustard gas attacks of The Great War. It was a grim sight, but our moods were restored with the discovery of a gorgeous bee house. An entire house dedicated to keeping bees! I would soon learn this is a thing in Slovenia.
the bee house
the next morning:
I made a plan for the next three days over my breakfast of oats with banana, strawberries, cacao, hemp seeds & a mug of earl grey, a standard traveling breakfast for me.
I had three days before heading to Lake Bled to meet up with one of my best friends from college & her boyfriend. So I decided I would just walk along the river all the way to the next largest city, Kransjka Gora, where I would catch a bus to the famous Lake Bled. I was surprised by the reaction I got when discussing the hike with the ladies at the hostel & a woman in a gear shop. Their reactions made it seem like I was pioneering or exploring, venturing out to somewhere yet to be discovered. It was slightly discouraging, but I knew two things:
First, I would be following the Alpe Adria a well established and known long distance hiking trail, and I knew tour groups offered guided hikes along this very route, though most headed from north to south in the opposite direction I would be walking. So, despite some hesitation from others I was looking forward to spending as much time as possible with the Soça river & the Julian Alps.
